The 5 Best Runway Shows From New York Fashion Week (+ a Trend Forecast!)
Top retailers give me their picks for favorite shows and trends for Fall 2023
So, it’s been a busy week!
Twice a year, in February and September, the international fashion flock descends upon New York to see the latest collections from top American designers.
Think Michael Kors, Tory Burch, Thom Browne, Gabriela Hearst.
Big names, big shows.
This season, there are a total of 109 designers listed on the official New York Fashion Week schedule, with 75 runway shows or presentations.
The runway shows are the most glamorous and by invitation only – attended primarily by fashion editors, critics, retailers, influencers, celebrities, and a special category known as “friends of the house,” which include actual friends of the designer, clients, and, yes, celebrity friends, too.
And it’s not just New York.
From here, attendees travel to London, Milan, and Paris, where international designers unveil their latest collections.
Fashion week is not a week at all. It’s an entire month.
Here’s how it works.
The collections unveiled this week and throughout the next month are for Fall 2023. The clothes won’t be in stores for another six months.
That’s because retailers are buying what they just saw now. Then, the clothes have to be made and shipped and, well, you get the picture.
It all takes time.
Here’s the problem.
Because of social media, we’re all seeing what’s on the runways on our feeds... in real time... and some argue that by the time the clothes hit the stores, we’re over them and, ultimately, won’t buy them.
There is some truth to that.
But, for now, the system stands because no one has come up with a better alternative and change is always slow.
So, now that you understand how it all works, here’s a recap of the (fashionable) week that was... plus, a trend report from three top retailers.
BEST FASHION SHOWS:
· KHAITE: Cate Holstein, who just won the CFDA’s American Womenswear Designer of the Year Award (the industry’s top prize), is having a banner year. She just showed what I believe is her best collection, yet; she’s about to open her first retail store (on Mercer Street in SoHo) and she’s expecting a baby! Almost every retailer I’ve spoken to this week has called Khaite a favorite. Talking point: shearling pants and pumps.
· GABRIELA HEARST: Gabriela Hearst, another past American Womenswear Designer of the Year winner, showed a standout collection this week. Using a rich palette of marigold yellow, chocolate brown, burgundy, black and ivory, Hearst gave fans a reason to cheer – showing signature trench coats, tailored suits, sexy knit dresses, ponchos, and a finale trio of cutout gowns. Talking point: one-stop shopping for Fall 2023.
· MICHAEL KORS: There’s a reason why Michael Kors is, well, Michael Kors. 40-plus years in the business, the man knows what he’s doing. Nobody does chic, wearable “jet set” clothing quite like him. He practically invented the category. This season, Kors was inspired by the ‘70s and muses like Gloria Steinem, who sat front row. Think fringe, knee-high boots, and swishy sequin dresses in chocolate brown, white, and a neutral that’s a mix of camel and grey. Talking point: jet set all the way.
· PROENZA SCHOULER: Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez called their 20th anniversary collection their most personal, yet. McCollough told Vogue it was less about a theme and more about the actual women in their lives and what they want to wear. Let’s just say, they delivered. We want it all, guys. Talking point: Chloe Sevigny opened the show!
· TORY BURCH: Tory Burch won the media lottery this New York Fashion Week with a huge profile in The New York Times. The story chronicles her shift from preppy tunics and monogram ballet flats to something, well, more “drinks at the Odeon.” It’s true. Burch’s shows have become, dare I say, more grown up. She’s serving up a chic, minimalist look with an edge that fashion girls like myself want to buy. Talking point: dinner dresses with fishnets.
· Honorable mention: Alejandra Alonso Rojas
TREND REPORT:
We’re early in the fashion season.
The New York fashion shows are behind us, but there’s still London, Milan, and Paris. Remember, it all lasts a month! And that means we still haven’t seen the reimagined Burberry under the direction of former Bottega Veneta designer Daniel Lee. Then, it’s onto Milan and Prada, among others. Finally, Paris – the granddaddy of them all – Dior! Vuitton! Valentino! Chanel!
That said, I asked three top retailers to reveal what trends they’ve spotted so far on the runways this season... plus, their favorite shows!
BETH BUCCINI, OWNER, KIRNA ZABÊTE
FAVORITE SHOWS: Proenza Schouler, Khaite, Carolina Herrera
TRENDS: Great dramatic outerwear, strong tailoring, shearling, silk/satin suiting, chocolate brown, mint green, leather (biker jackets, miniskirts, trench coats).
RICKIE DE SOLE, WOMEN’S FASHION & EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, NORDSTROM
FAVORITE SHOWS: Proenza Schouler, Thom Browne, Ulla Johnson, LaQuan Smith
TRENDS: I’d say red is the new pink. It’s the pop color for Fall 2023. Longer leaner lines are taking over.
ROOPAL PATEL, SVP, FASHION DIRECTOR, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE
FAVORITE SHOWS: Thom Browne, Rodarte, Khaite, Jason Wu, Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler, Gabriela Hearst, LaQuan Smith
TRENDS: Understated elegance, a minimalist approach to tailoring and tailored separates, sheer, a return to evening glamour and statement outerwear.
I hope you’re inspired to watch some of the upcoming shows from London and beyond online... let me know what you think about what you’re seeing on the runways this season.
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